All Postings that advertise items for sale will be deleted from the Discussion Forum.
You may post sale items for free in the Classifieds section. Sign up now. Repair manual Model Atwood RV furnace. I need a repair manual or maintenance Manual for the Subject furnace. Fired up furnace for 1st time and wouldn't stay lit. What to do and where to go? Service manual for iv the ignition lockout fault comes on according to led,flashes 3 times with a 3sec delay.
Fan won't start up fuse OK switch to on but fan doesn't start need help. My furnace does not work on electrical,no heat,blower stays on for approx 5min but then stop,i reset it by switching the on off button and it would do the same for another 5min;when i tried the gas it did give out some heat,but seems to be no temp reg.
I'm thinking electronic controller board could be bad. I work in elecronic comm and I could probably make sense of this with the proper schematic for electrical and propane burner.
Waiting to hear from you. I had a mud dobber make a nest on the electrodes for lighting and a mouse nest built in my air duct would that make my heater light and within ten minuites just blow cold air thanks. Have problem where water heater lights then goes out, if started about 5 times will stay lit.
I am in need of a repair manual and user manual if they are avail. My furnace also starts but shuts down on Ignition Lockout Fault. Hi, Could you tell me what the LD stands for on a model number. Thanks for your time. I see many asking for stuff but I don't see any answers really. I also need a repair manual for the It is very loud when it starts up but usually quiets down after a minute or so. SOunds like fan rubbing on shroud possibly? I have an Atwood iv furncce that ignites and runs fine.
The problem I have is that once the rv comes to temp. I can turn the power off with the reset switch turned to the off position and I can refire the furnace after minutes and the same thing happens again. I checked the connections and all seem to be fine. The furnace is 3 yrs old and only used times. Bob, you can download diagnostics from the Atwood web site. The below is an example. They also have parts lists for the furnaces that can be downloaded.RVs for Sale.
Parts Superstore. Manufacturer Dometic. BTU Size 12, 16, 18, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, Power Source 12 Vdc Vac. Voltage 12 Vdc. Discharge Ducted. Show 12 24 48 96 View All Showing 1 - 24 of Blower Motor for Motor, Hydro Flame.
Digital Thermostat 1h2c. Motor Dc82 Pfq. Back To Top Showing 1 - 24 of Atwood Furnaces are pretty hot right now. For a powerful RV heater that brings the warmth into your living space and the energy efficiency you need from your RV equipment, let Atwood be your man.
Easy installation and many years of reliable heat for your mobilehome make Atwood Furnaces one of the best choices on the market. We carry it all! Keep your Atwood Furnace running smoothly Need a quick fix? Atwood Hydro Flame Furnace Motor Kit can give you the convenience of furnace repair and upgrade in your own hands.
Save valuable time and money with quality RV equipment and accessories that will bring you reliability and durability long term. Your family vacation should be the only focus you have, and the fun you can have on that RV roadtrip making new memories. At PPL Motorhomes we aim to make your shopping experience an excellent one, let us do the work for you. Tell us how we can help you today! Contact Us. Worth N Main St. All Rights Reserved, - The blower and propane solenoids are working fine and I'm getting a volt reading on the igniter wire using a digital voltmeter with the igniter wire connected at both ends.
Is that enough voltage to fire the igniter? Robbie: Turn the furnace on again and go outside to the exhaust, wait for the furnace to try and ignite and when its finished smell the exhaust for propane If you smell propane you do have a problem with your ignitors and they may need to be cleaned or replaced call a qualified tech to do this.
If you don't smell propane you have a gas supply problem or your gas valve is not opening. Test the gas by lighting a burner on your stove top and turn on the furnace when it tries to ignite the flame on the stove should remain the same, if it gets smaller you do not have enough gas pressure.
Lastly to answer your question carefully remove the Computer Curcuit board and you can take it to any RV repair center and they can test it for you to be sure the ignitor is sparking strong enough. Please feel free to call me anytime if I can answer any more questions regarding the furnace. Thanks for the Question Good Luck, Robbie. Click here to add your own comments.
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The ground clamp is behind the blower wheel. Remove 4 screws from the plastic cover it is on and remove the cover, remove the PC board, remove the exhaust tube, take the propane line loose, take the igniter wire red loose and one quick disconnect wire both on propane line sideremove 3 - 4 screws from around the exhaust hole area that hold the burner in and one on the round edge not on IVpull out the burner, loosen set screw on the small fan, hold the large fan and rock the small one while pulling to remove it.
You may have to sand rust off the shaft end if it won't come off. There are 3 hex screws behind the small fan not on IV see below remove them and you should be able to pull the motor and blower fan out as one assembly. Remove and install fan on new motor. Reverse all this to install. You may have to change one wire connector on the new motor to hook it up. Pay attention to where the motor wires were connected as the motor will run backwards if you reverse them.
Hope this helps, good luck! Check the LP connection for leaks with soapy water after installation. The control board tested OK and you can smell the propane when the unit is running and trying to lite so the gas valve is working fine. Blowr works fine. It repeats this several times before shutting down completely. I have cleaned the squirrel cage, blown dust off of the circuit board, vacuumed the heat exchanger. I cannot figure out how to get the thermocouple out of the unit, so I cannot check that.
Any suggestions? The soot covers the area around the exhaust on the motor home. What could be the cause? This motor home is a Holiday. It belonged to my wife's brother, who recently died. I'm trying to get it working, so her family can either use it, or sell it when his estate settles. I operated the furnace a couple of weeks ago, and it was fine. Then, I drove it a few hundred miles home to my father-in-law's place. Now, the only way I can get it to ignite, is to unplug the igniter and the circuit card connector After I re-connect, it'll ignite after a certain amount of seconds.
However, it goes out again after a fairly short time. I hadn't used it for two days and now the motor will run and it try's to light and I can smell gas but it will not light. I'm at a total loss. Thank you. I turned it off and now it will not come back on.
Atwood/Hydroflame Furnaces & Heaters
Propane does not ignite, blower does not start Check the edge connector plug on the circuit board for lint and clean the board contacts with a pencil eraser.
Check all spade connections for a tight clean connection.You can also use direct sunlight for the flame sensor test, but it works best during peak hours and without a cloud in the sky. A flame sensor is designed to regulate the flow of gas from a gas valve, much like a thermocouple. Testing one is essential to maintaining proper and safe functionality of a gas-powered device regulated by a flame sensor, such as a gas dryer, furnace or water boiler. A malfunctioning flame sensor could cause permanent damage to the device, irregular function and a serious fire.
Fortunately testing a flame sensor is straightforward, requiring just a multimeter and a light source. Locate the flame sensor on the gas-powered device; it's usually found inside a small back or front access panel. Unplug the device or, if the device cannot be unplugged, switch the breaker inside the breaker box responsible for the device to the "Off" position. Unfasten the clamp securing the flame sensor in place using a Phillips screwdriver and disconnect the leads by pulling on the wire boots.Gas Furnace will not stay lit on for more than few sec - clean flame sensor troubleshoot heat fire
Set the multimeter to show resistance and touch the probes to the blue and white wire ports on the flame sensor; the multimeter should show low resistance. Press the open end of the flame sensor against a watt light bulb or a flame sensor test lamp. Inspect the multimeter; it should now show high resistance. Replace the flame sensor if the multimeter doesn't show any discrepancy in resistance when the open end of the flame sensor is placed against a light source.
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Things You'll Need Phillips screwdriver Multimeter Light source flame sensor test lamp or watt light bulb. Tip You can also use direct sunlight for the flame sensor test, but it works best during peak hours and without a cloud in the sky. Step 1 Locate the flame sensor on the gas-powered device; it's usually found inside a small back or front access panel.
Step 2 Unplug the device or, if the device cannot be unplugged, switch the breaker inside the breaker box responsible for the device to the "Off" position. Step 3 Unfasten the clamp securing the flame sensor in place using a Phillips screwdriver and disconnect the leads by pulling on the wire boots. Step 4 Set the multimeter to show resistance and touch the probes to the blue and white wire ports on the flame sensor; the multimeter should show low resistance.
Step 5 Press the open end of the flame sensor against a watt light bulb or a flame sensor test lamp.Atwood furnace is a heating appliance widely used in recreational vehicles such as trailers for traveling or compact motor homes. They come with digital thermostats and self-diagnostic system and offer two levels of heat output.
Customers may choose from different sizes according to their needs. Even though Atwood furnaces are pretty reliable when operated well and come with warranties, some owners still may face minor malfunctions from time to time. Service: Atwood Furnace Troubleshooting. Stage 1. Find a power supply and connect the Atwood furnace to it if you notice any malfunction.
Check the fuse and replace it if necessary. Stage 2. Stage 3. Make sure you take away any soft thing like carpeting or drapes. Stage 4. Remove the filter by opening the main panel. Use the soap or any special solution to clean it from dirt and put it away to let it completely dry.
Atwood Hydro Flame Furnace Troubleshooting
Put it back inside the furnace and try to start it one more time. Stage 5. Contact Atwood in case you face some other complicated issues. Clean with air pressure or replace. Check for spider webs in pilot or pilot orifice. Clean with emery paper and replace. Check and adjust. Check for millivolt out-put and replace if faulty. Insert V2 cup methylhydrate into empty gas bottle.The following descriptions are based on the Hydro Flame series furnaces, but the operating principles are similar for other manufacturers.
The furnace is designed to operate at voltages between Low voltage will not run the blower motor at the proper speed to commence the ignition sequence. Return air is the air that flows in to replace the heated air that the blower pushes out through the ducting. This air is pulled in by the furnace through louvered openings in the side of the furnace cabinet, and any items stored near these openings could interfere with this air flow. More information on this here. The exhaust venting must be clear of all obstructions for proper furnace operation.
Inspect the vents for insect or bird nests or other debris. Please see the manometer page for more information and a simple manometer you can build yourself! Used on older furnaces, newer furnaces have the relay incorporated into the circuit board This relay performs two separate jobs - one to handle the relatively high current needed to run the blower motor - and two, to allow the blower to run for 45 to 90 seconds after the thermostat is satisfied.
This allows excess heat in the chamber to dissipate before the blower stops. The relay is normally open and should always have power from the circuit breaker. Only when power from the thermostat is present does the relay close after a 20 second delay. Power then flows to the blower motor.
Next in the ignition sequence is the blower motor. It drives two squirrel cage fans to provide separate air flow for the combustion process and for distributing the heated air to the coach. A heat exchanger is used to separate the heat from the burning gas while preventing exhaust gases from entering the living space. Specific motors are used in each model and BTU size of furnace and the correct replacement motor must be used.
As the blower comes up to speed, it blows air onto the sail with enough force to push the switch closed, thus allowing electrical current to flow to the next component in line.
Atwood Furnace Won't Ignite
It's job is to determine if there is adequate air flow for proper combustion to take place. If the battery voltage is low or the fan does not come up to 75 per cent of it's design speed, the sail switch will not close. Possible causes of this malfunction are: low battery, restricted return air inflow, restricted or inadequate outlet vents, restricted combustion air inlet or exhaust, faulty sail switch. The limit switch is a simple temperature controlled switch. It's function is to monitor the combustion chamber heat level.
If the temperature of the combustion chamber exceeds the preset limit, the switch will open and disrupt the flow of current to the circuit board, in effect, shutting down the main burner.
Once the chamber temperature cools sufficiently, the limit switch resets. This initializes the ignition sequence and starts another cycle. This condition is referred to as "limiting". The circuit board will not receive power until the sail switch is closed by adequate air flow from the blower. The power must also flow through the limit switch and the sail switch. When the circuit board is triggered by this current, it delays ignition for about 15 seconds to allow the blower to purge the combustion chamber of any unburned gases.
A rapid ticking noise can sometimes be heard as the igniter is sparking. At the same time, the circuit board sends power to open the gas valves allowing the fuel to flow to the burner. The circuit board monitors the burn cycle through a sensor that detects the presence of the flame. If the sensor does not detect a satisfactory flame within about 10 seconds, the board then shuts off the gas valves and discontinues the ignition spark.
All electrical connections should be clean and tight. The sensor sends a microamp reading to the circuit board when the flame is burning.
Any impedance to this tiny amperage flow will cause the board to shut things down. Depending on the board design, it will try for ignition up to three times.